Roger Dubuis’ ambition has remained steadfast since the very beginning. Since 1995, the Geneva-based brand has been driven by the vision of its two co-founders to create unique timepieces. This vision was evident from the very first launch, and now, as the brand celebrates 30 years in the world of fine watchmaking, a new creation is introduced that reflects that original dream: the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar.
Much like Roger Dubuis’ first watch released in 1996, this model features a signature Biretrograde display. It retains the Maison’s familiar design, yet is updated with a modern and expressive style, showcasing elegant heritage materials, a refined classic size, and the prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification.
The Beauty of the Biretrograde Display
Roger Dubuis was deeply passionate about fine watchmaking, but what set him apart was the expressiveness in his designs. This is most evident in the Biretrograde display, a feature Roger greatly admired. Among his many innovations, this distinctive style captured his creativity and heart, allowing him to showcase the genius of horological mechanics.
After refining and modernizing the retrograde system in the late 1980s with skilled watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, Roger patented the design and used it when founding his namesake brand in 1995. To emphasize its expressive nature, the patent was first introduced on the face of the inaugural watch, alongside a chronograph.
The Biretrograde system itself requires a precise coordination of cams, rakes, clicks, and springs, allowing the calendar hands to move smoothly along semi-circular scales, then return to zero at the end of their cycle, ready to start the journey anew.
In the new Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, wearers can enjoy the intricate movement of its components as the watch tracks the current day and date with beautifully crafted, skeletonized hands.
Refinement Revisited
At 40mm, this watch features the refined sizes typical of Roger Dubuis’ 1990s creations. The sleek case is made of 18K pink gold and a white mother-of-pearl dial. In the early 2000s, Roger Dubuis was among the first to use pink gold and mother-of-pearl in men’s watches, making these materials iconic in the brand’s bold, sophisticated identity. The mother-of-pearl’s iridescence gives the watch a captivating, theatrical appeal. The watch is completed with a 3D brown calfskin leather strap and an interchangeable pink gold triple-folding clasp.
Classic Aesthetic Codes
Roger Dubuis’ signature biretrograde display is evident in this 2025 model, with scales that widen at the edges and narrow toward the center, creating an expressive curve. Other aesthetic elements draw from the brand’s heritage. The face is symmetrical, with the biretrograde scales balanced on both sides. The small seconds counter at 6 o’clock aligns with the stamp at 12 o’clock, which features “BIRETROGRADE CALENDAR” in the Maison’s historic font and the Geneva Seal emblem, reminiscent of the Much More Biretrograde Calendar from the early 2000s — another tribute to the brand’s 30th anniversary.
Calibre and Caseback
Inside the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is the Calibre RD840, an automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the oscillating weight is visible, inspired by the original design from 1996 but updated with a modern twist. The meticulous craftsmanship behind the movement is certified by the Poinçon de Genève, reflecting the Maison’s commitment to both aesthetics and performance. Every component in the movement is hand-decorated and polished, ensuring a pristine finish.
A quote from the brand’s co-founders is engraved on a ring beneath the sapphire glass as a tribute: “This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us.”
An Opportunity to Celebrate Roger Dubuis
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar celebrates Roger Dubuis’ 30th anniversary. It bridges the past and present, transforming the Maison’s heritage into a timepiece of exceptional excellence and elegance. Throughout his life, Roger Dubuis focused on highlighting fine watchmaking through innovative methods. This new creation carries his vision forward, connecting his legacy with a new generation of watch enthusiasts.
